Marcia & Edward Go to South Africa

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

The week in which we were originally scheduled to leave!

I' ve already reported what we did on the weekend of the 4th and 5th, so now to the week that followed. Though a week earlier than usual for this month (the first not the second week) it was Monday and so the hacking team headed for Kenilworth Race Course This time I remembered to bring my hat and gloves, which I left in the CREW office last month, and we had good weather. This month it was Caitlin, Wendy, and me from Kirstenbosch with a stop along the way to collect Dr. Muasya. As it turned out Ismail met us there.

Once at the race course we met the usual group of volunteers and off we went. Dr. Muasya was there to look for sedges and Caitlin and I accompanied him for a bit and then rejoined the group to do a little hacking. Here are the two of them puzzling over another tiny sedge. Caitlin does so get into her plants!



As this was supposed to be the last hacking outing for this year, Wendy had brought the fixings for a tea to thank the volunteers. Everyone gathered amidst the aliens and enjoyed tea and juice and muffins and other good things to eat. Quite a spread. Here we are enjoying the repast, with Wendy doing the serving. Once done the group set off with Dr. Muasya and Caitlin to learn about sedges and to look for two rare species that could be on the site. Much was learned, but the rare species were not found. There is too much overgrowth and an immediate need for a fire. All part of management, but hard to do in the middle of a race course!

Just wanted to show you how some of the veld at the race course is returning after a recent fire. And if you look in the background you can see the always present mountain. This is the one we live and work under, Table Mountain. Certainly feels different from Tidewater Virginia!


And I have to present a few more plant photos since the plants are why we are here! In some ways I have been a bit lacking in my presentation of the Cape flora. The genus Erica, the genus of heaths, is a major contributor to this flora with hundreds of species. And I haven't shown you any! So here are two we found at Kenilworth. These show you the two commonly found flower shapes, tubular and urn. Flower color is often red but can be white and even yellow.



And this is a beautiful Spiloxene! Blooming with this were yellow Ixias and the white and pink selagos (either Selago or Pseudoselago) you see in the picture with Table Mountain in the background.


Three visits and three different sets of flowers in bloom! Very nice to be able to have seen the progression. Do hope they continue to make progress in their battle with the alien plants there.

In the afternoon plans were being finalized for our departure on Tuesday morning. All members of CREW plus three guests will be departing for Nieuwoudtville for a retreat. The Crew contingent consists of Tilla, Ismail, Caitlin, Wendy, and Suvarna. Tilla and Suvarna are in the Pretoria office. The guests will be Annelise, Marcia, and me. Annelise is presently a botanist with Cape Nature. She is working to start a CREW office in Kamieskroon, which is north of Cape Town and about 3/4 of the way to Namibia. This is in the area of the Northern Cape province called Namaqualand, another of the regions that is dry and rich in succulents . One other volunteer was asked to go but she was not able to do so. That left me. I asked more than once if there would be any problem with accommodating the wheelchair and was told more than once that things would be arranged. Given this and that everyone made me feel I would be able to contribute, I agreed to go. Once meeting time and departure instructions were determined Marcia and I went home and got things ready for the next morning.

Due to a delay in Suvarna's arrival we got a later start than planned. I drove Marcia, Wendy, Annelise, and me and we headed straight to Nieuwoudtville by way of the N7. The other group, Tilla, Ismail, and Caitlin, went to the airport and picked up Survana and then met us at the Clanwilliam Dam for a late lunch. Then we finished our drive of around 300 km to where we would be for the next few days. The drive took us into more and more arid regions, and along the way we saw the vineyards disappear to be replaced by citrus orchards -- thus the name of one of the major towns we passed, Citrusdal. We also saw many fields of Aspalathus linearis, the source of rooibos tea. This has become an important crop for export. Then it was just large areas for grazing sheep.

Once we arrived in Nieuwoudtville we met Bettina who would lead and moderate our activities. The retreat then began with an outline of where we going over the next two days and introductions. Though I had interacted with most of these folks for two months it was good to hear their introductions. After the schedule for the evening was determined we got ourselves settled where we were staying. The four in my group would be staying at the Rooi Dakhuis, the Nieuwoudtville version of the Red Roof Inn. Both the name and the building say so! As we were the only ones staying there we were given the keys to the place and then figured out the rest on our own. Interesting!

The others stayed across the street from Bettina's office/home where we were having the retreat. Tilla owns a residence here as she has a special fondness for the area. Not surprising for a botanist as Nieuwoudtville is known as the bulb capitol of the world. There may be as many as 50 different species of geophytes in a square meter of veld here! In the spring these seemingly barren fields explode in incredible displays of colors. We were too late to see this but Bettina gave us a slide show of this year's production. Wow! No wonder this quiet little village becomes a bustling town each spring.

After we got settled and caught our breath we returned to Bettina's house for a braai. Everybody had a chance to relax and enjoy some great food. It wasn't long after dinner that folks began to head to bed. It had been a long drive and the Nieuwoudtville heat was taking its toll. And Marcia, Wendy, and I are going to visit the nearby gorge and waterfall in the morning. Heading to our B & B under a full moon, we could't help but exclaim at the beauty of the night sky and all the stars. Without the glare of city lights, the stars are simply breathtaking. We did note a bright band of 3 stars which we later learned was Orion's Belt.

Up early and to the gorge we go. Somewhat surprising to be driving through this arid landscape and to come across an impressive gorge with a waterfall at its start. Not much water flowing at present but at other times of the year it is substantial. And at the base of the waterfall is a spring-fed pool that never dries up. In our walk to see the gorge and the waterfall we see a variety of plants with interesting adaptations to deal with the arid conditions. And a few of them are even blooming. And various insects were out doing their best to find enough food to eat. We find a small army of large grasshoppers munching away. At least they found this vegetation edible?!?

Then it was time to head back. Both because we needed breakfast before we got started with business and because it already was getting warmer. It would be another hot day.

Over this day, even over lunch, and half of the next day the CREW folks and guests work on identifying strengths and weaknesses and defining a strategic plan. There are problems everyone agrees must be dealt with but there are so many strengths and such passion in these folks that I have no doubt they will continue to be successful. I do hope my limited contributions were of value to them. I look forward to keeping in touch and learning about how they and the CREW project progress.

Before dinner we all take a drive to the kokerboom forest to see the trees and to enjoy a sundowner. The trees are quiver trees, Aloe dichotoma. We saw these in the Karoo National Botanic Garden, but that doesn't compare to seeing them in their natural environs. It was late in the day and the light was beginning to fade and the result was almost surreal. Here are some pictures from our visit.

These are Edward's pictures.
Wendy, Ismail, Tilla, Marcia, and part of Suvarna inspecting one of the kokerbooms. Notice that Marcia is right there under the quiver tree. Tilla and Ismail wouldn't allow her to stay in the car. We half carried and half wheeled her out to the edge of the forest. Quite a workout for all who participated, but Marcia was happy to be included.

My attempt at being artsy.


These are from Caitlin.




Enjoying our sundowner!

Edward in a a deep burrow, either aardvark or porcupine, with Annelise looking on!

Night is falling.

Making like kokerbooms and then on our way back to town and dinner.


Our last day in Nieuwoudtville and our return to Cape Town will have to wait for the next entry!

Edward & Marcia

Monday, November 13, 2006

November 4th & 5th

This was originally to be our last weekend in South Africa, but we all know how plans change. After we had spent the day touring the Cape peninsula with Diana and before she left for her trip to numerous European destinations, we had arranged to go to Darling to see a performance at Evita se Perron. That was arranged for the 5th. But more on that shortly.

If you remember, we had had a week of bad weather and service interruptions leading up to Saturday the 4th. And the weather was predicted to be lousy through the morning on the 4th. And it was just that when we arose. We rethought our plans for the day and decided to wait until the next weekend to go to the Elgin Open Gardens. Visiting gardens, nurseries, vineyards, and orchards after a week of rain didn't seem like a great idea. And now we had the next weekend to do this.

We had a leisurely morning at the cottage and let the rain finish. We checked in with Dorothy who had invited us to dinner if we didn't go to Elgin. So we were on for dinner with the Whitings and we could do something locally. After lunch we made a quick stop at Constantia Village, our mall of choice, and purchased a few provisions. Then we headed to Hout Bay to visit World of Birds http://www.worldofbirds.org.za/index.html. We figured a couple of hours there would be plenty and then we would head to dinner. That was a miscalculation on our part! We spent 2+ hours there and were one of the last to leave and we really needed more time. Many birds and other animals to see. Many were not African, but still fun to see. Some were birds from home, exotic to South Africans but not to us. But Marcia got to see a turkey in full display for the first time! Here are a few of the things we saw.

This one is for Katie and Kathy. There were numerous parrots and their relatives. Lots of gaudy colors. And LOTS of noise!


And this one is for Marcia. Reminds her of the African gray that was at the B&B in Arniston.


This one is also for Marcia. She loved the color of these South American scarlet ibis, especially the variation in the coral color from bird to bird and the numerous shades of color in the plumage on an individual bird.


Here is Marcia having a tete-a-tete with an inquisitive avian admirer. It had an unusual crest of upright, curling feathers. Here was a spike job you'd be proud of, Katie!!

Here is one of the many primates to be seen. A pair of these tiny moustached creatures had free reign in one of the greenhouse areas, along with a pair of Knysna louries. Couldn't get a picture of these beautiful green birds.


I really should have done a better job keeping track of what I was photographing, but I was too busy watching the animals and looking to see what was coming next.

Just a couple of interesting side notes. When we drove into the parking area at World of Birds the usual security person was there. His name was Alexander and he directed me to where I should unload Marcia and then park. "How do I know his name?" you ask.

Well, parking areas at most good locations have at least one security person present. Not sure how much these folks actually do but at least they are there and something of a presence. After I parked the car and headed to the entrance Alexander walked up and handed me a small piece of paper. It gave me his name and stated that he would be looking after my car while I enjoyed World of Birds. At the bottom in big letters it read DONATION ONLY. Of course I tipped him when we left!

A second note: when we went to pay our entrance fees we were only charged for me. There was no charge for the person in the wheelchair. That has happened at least one time before. Here it might be that the paths were something of a challenge for someone in a wheelchair. Don't really know.

Then off we went to have dinner at the Whitings. They live in a development called Marina de Gama. As you can guess it is on the water, on Zandvlei. This is a body of water that empties into False Bay, the bay on the eastern side of the Cape peninsula, the Indian Ocean side. From their back yard you look west across Zandvlei to the Muizenberg Mountains and the community of Muizenberg. Further south are St. James (where Diana lives) and Kalk Bay. Quite a pretty view! Pat and Bobby were neighbors until about a year ago.

We brought the penguin video (City Slickers) that Diana had loaned us and we watched it with Robyn. It was about the penguins at Boulders Beach in Simon's Town. Cute video. Makes me glad these cuties are not in my back, and front, yard! And for dinner we had roasted chicken, roasted potatoes (which Marcia and I fought over!), veggies, and then -- to Marcia's delight -- Malva pudding. Great dinner, great company, great evening! Thanks Dorothy and Jon!

On the way out I had to see the western leopard toads living in the excavated area around the water pipe and meter. This is a threatened species of toad that brings out the toad brigade during breeding periods. These folks help the toads cross roads to get to their breeding areas without being squished. And here were three of them living comfortably in the water box. As you can see this is a very pretty toad.


Now to Sunday. As I already mentioned we had made reservations for Diana to join us to go to Darling to see a performance at Evita se Perron. Pieter-Dirk Uys is the actual person behind all of Evita se Perron. And one of his characters, maybe his best known character, is Evita Bezuidenhout. Peter-Dirk as Evita has been performing cabaret acts for many years, with many of the topics being pertinent historically or to current events. Here is the link to Evita's Web site -- http://www.evita.co.za/index.htm. There you can find more about this amazingly talented man and the projects he supports.

Diana met us at the cottage Sunday morning and off to Darling we went. We learn about Diana's trip as we drive, and about the problems she faced upon her return. Seems there was some unauthorized time behind the wheel of one of her cars by a fellow who works for her. And he didn't actually know how to drive! Quite a bit of damage was done to her car and the garage! But that wasn't going to stop her from enjoying this afternoon.

We are in time for lunch, which is lamb with rice, potatoes, veggies, and salad. And for dessert we each get a koeksister -- one of those delicious syrup-drenched treats. That is all, except for Marcia who gets an extra one snuck to her!

And then it is time for the show. The one we see is called "Tannie Evita Praat Kaktus". Here is the description from the Web site:

Evita Bezuidenhout's legendary and hilarious state-of-the-nation address on the nature of politics and the ecology. She presents South African History as it only could have been imagined, and yet based on fact. Every performance reflects the news and views of the moment. It is 99.9% in English!

It wasn't quite 99% in English but close. She began by picking on the foreigners, and she had a good time with the two Americans. Then she filled an hour with her nonstop rendition of South African history and the present state of affairs. It was terrific. Great satire and great points made about the state of things presently. Very glad we did this.

Finished the day with a nice drive home and tentative plans made for Diana to take us on her wine country tour. That will come after her knee surgery, which takes place on Tuesday. She expects to be better than ever in short order.

It was another great outing with Diana. How lucky we have been in terms of the people we have met! Thanks Diana.

To come is our trip to Nieuwoudtville.
Edward & Marcia

Sunday, November 12, 2006

Miscellany

It's time to fill in a few gaps in terms of things done since our second trip to Darling, October 21 & 22. During the two weeks that followed we both mainly worked in our offices. For much of the week following our trip east I was not feeling great. Just some viral bug that had me running a bit slowly. Nothing serious but it caused me to skip a field trip to the Bredasdorp area. That and the late return for that trip. But I did go on the field trip to Shaw's Pass, which is outside Caledon. Once again I put together the ID guide for the trip. This has really
helped me become familiar with the plants and develop good mental images to use in the field.

It was a full bakkie for this trip--Ismail, Caitlin, Wendy, Albert, and me. We met three others in Caledon and one of them, Hink, joined us to go to the pass. Once there we spent most of the day making our way over the koppies looking for the specials. And we were quite successful. We found a number of the proteas we were seeking and a vygie, a very small member of the Polygala family, a Bobartia, and a legume that was blooming nicely for us. And it was a very pleasant day as well. Here are a few pictures of some of the interesting things I found. Of course there were more plants found for which identities are still needed. But I am getting better.

In all of the green is a bladder grasshopper, probably Physemacris variolosus.

Here it is easier to see. The males have the enlarged abdomens that are used as resonating chambers for their calls. Very impressive.

And on this Bobartia is one of the numerous blister beetles around. You can guess why they are called blister beetles! I just looked.

Now for a plant or two on their own. The first is Ornithogalum dubium. Notice how rocky the soil surface is behind the Ornithogalum flower. This is typical of the veld throughout much of the Western Cape.

The second is the special legume we were hunting, Otholobium lanceolatum.

Nice fuzzy pea flowers. Very pretty.


Thursday and Friday I helped Caitlin gather specimens and materials for the sedge workshop to be held Friday afternoon. Dr. Muthama Muasya from UCT was coming to give a short course on identifying sedges, members of the Cyperaceae. These are difficult specimens to ID because their reproductive parts are so small.

There were about 20 present for the workshop, which went very well. It would have helped to have more microscopes but we managed with what was available. And it would have helped to have a bit more time. But overall the workshop was very informative and gave me better understanding of this group of plants.

As Marcia and I were getting ready to go home Ismail dropped into Marcia's office to offer us tickets for the Flower Show. What timing! That was the major thing we had planned for the upcoming weekend. And you have already read about how great the show was. And about the loss of services over the course of the following rainy week. That must mean I am getting closer to being caught up. Will try to get the events of Nov. 4-12 posted as soon as possible.

That's all for now since I have to arise early tomorrow to take pictures at Jenny's church. Marcia went with to church with Jenny this evening. The numerous florals were arranged for the church's bazaar the previous weekend. It seems the big flower display is coming down tomorrow and Marcia wants pictures.

Later!
Edward